The Muslin Diaries: Volume 2: The Colette Pastille Dress

Here we go again, second verse, different from the first! (Jackie is a punk, Judy is a runt…no? Okay, never mind then. No Ramones fans in the audience. That’s cool!) Without further ado, I present to you, my Sew Colette Pastille Dress Muslin, in all it’s bright yellow glory:

I look so glum!

May I just say that I don’t think I really make a true muslin all that often. I either just make a bodice, or I make the whole damn thing with seam finishing (pinking) and heming and everything. I’m not one for the in-between. I recognize that this is not, in fact, the point of a muslin, but it’s my garment and I’ll pink if I want to (if you’re not into the Ramones I’m sure Lesley Gore is right up your alley).  So this is yet another “wearable” muslin, sue me.

I made this out of a sheet I had dyed yellow, because dying is fun. It’s a touch anemic on me, the color, I mean, but I think it will be cute for summer. Given my experience with the Meringue  Skirt,  I traced and cut a size 8 this time, which worked really nicely through the hips and rear etc, but was a bit snug in the bust and back:

I did not want to hear such as thing, because it makes me feel bad about myself, so I lashed out at my mother/photographer. Sorry, mom. But just like when she told me I couldn’t make my own soap because it’s dangerous for ten year olds to use lye, she was correct. It looks okay in this photo, but I can see that oh-so-adorable thing that happens when your bra strap cuts into your back and gives you imaginary but emotionally debilitating back fat.

The back zipper, she is wrinkled.

So, thoughts: I really like this dress. Unlike the Meringue, which, while adorable, and I like my final version (photos to come once I take them in San Juan!) isn’t really my jam, this is my kind of dress. It’s more fitted then my usual style, but I think that’s a good thing, and I like that it hugs my curves and highlights my waist. And I love the pleats and the sweetheart neckline, so that’s all to the good.

I like the fit right now, in general, and I think with some adjustments it will be just perfect. I think I ought to do a full bust adjustment, which is something that, believe it or not, I’ve never actually done. I know. And my chest? Is not small. I’m a D, if you must know, but somehow I’ve just never had to do one….so that’s interesting. But Sarai has a guide in the book, and there are scores of tutorials on the internet, so I’m not concerned. The back is a bit more perplexing, though, and I’m not sure what to do to fix that. Do I cut a bigger size just for the back? Let out the darts? Any thoughts, friends? All suggestions would be welcome!

The length is good, the sleeves are cute, but next time, when I make this for real for real, I might have to break down and line it, at least in the bodice. I just hate facings, people, I hate them. I think they are evil. They never really stay down unless you tack the hell out of them and then you can see the stitches on the right side which was the WHOLE POINT OF A FACING, SO THAT DOESN’T HAPPEN. Facings and I, not best friends forever.

So there you  have it. In other news, I’m currently working on a pair of Denim clovers, yay, and I’ve finally gotten together all the pieces I will need for my spring jacket! More on that to come. What are you working on? Any other Sew Coletters out there?


Filed under Clothing, Colette Patterns, Dye, Sewing

14 responses to “The Muslin Diaries: Volume 2: The Colette Pastille Dress

  1. Loveeeeee that yellow on you! Be prepared because I think that everyone commenting is going to say that 🙂

  2. I think i’ll use that from now on- ‘I’ll take photos once I’m in San Juan’ . I like it. The yellow is quite lovely- I like a wearable muslin- double the dresses, you know? Are there really non-Ramones fans?

    • Haha, yeah, it’s my favorite one…thank goodness I go there at least once a year or it would be a long wait followed by a flood of photos….I hope everyone loves the Ramones, but I can’t control the world…

  3. I love the yellow – hope you do wear this as the shape really suits you. It looks like you have quite a narrow back so maybe the FBA would be enough for your next version. Am listening to the Ramones in my head now – not sure whether to thank you for that!

    • Haha, sorry! But it could be worse, right? I guess it could be Justin Bieber, or something! Thank you, I really love this shape, I think it’s a really nice one! I think I’m making my next one in a stretch poplin, so maybe with the FBA and the stretch it will work out for me.

  4. I hear you! You’re talking to the girl who does her muslins w/French seams. And stitches in a tag. All or nothing, baby. I have to say, this fit is so, so close, and I love the sunny yellow! Leather jacket, you’re done. Who doesn’t love the Ramones? My suggestion is to let out the darts and pinch out some of the bodice back horizontally (swayback) so that pucker in the zipper doesn’t become baggier once you let the darts out.

    I’m working on perfecting my Clovers for denim, too! And a spring jacket. Sewing synchronicity 🙂

    • Haha, I handstiched the hem, AND the zipper! I should put in a tag, I gotta get tags….I just can’t help but commit to the things I make! There are no tier-two garments! All in!

      Do you think I should eliminate the darts, or just make them smaller? I’m never done that before.

      Oh my god, get out of my sewing space! Yeah, I think denim clovers and a jacket are going to be my go-to spring things. Spring sewing, unite!

      • Awesome! I think you’ll need the darts for shaping, so just make them smaller. I wonder if adding just a smidge more width at the side seam on the back pieces only would help, too? The front looks great, so I wouldn’t add anything there.

  5. The front looks pretty good, and it’s such a fun bright yellow! The back does look long and narrow. I’d suggest taking a wedge out of the back (swayback adjustment) to shorten the back seam and prevent horizontal wrinkling. If the front fits well and the side seams fall correctly, using a smaller seam allowance for just the back side seams may give you the room you need. Breathing is a good thing 😉

    • Breathing is SUCH a good thing. Thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it! I’ve never done a swayback adjustment either, which is silly, because I’ve clearly got me one of those….

      • It seems like everyone needs a swayback adjustment–it should be called the normal spine adjustment!

        I thought I’d refreshed the page but didn’t see all the helpful advice you’d received. At least we agree on the changes? A small FBA could help eliminated the pulling at the front underarm. The fit is fantastic for a muslin!

  6. I’ll add my voice to a little smaller seam allowances on the back side seams and a horizontal slice from the bottom of the back to smooth out the zipper line. Seeing you in this dress has encouraged me to try this pattern out, I think the pinky coral in the book kind of blinded me to the curves and simplicity of the style. Thanks for sharing your work-in-progress. Can’t wait to see what you do with denim Clovers!

  7. Pingback: A Peppermint Pastille (MMM 5 Continued) | Struggle Sews a Straight Seam

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