Tag Archives: full bust adjustment

The Muslin Diaries: Volume 2: The Colette Pastille Dress

Here we go again, second verse, different from the first! (Jackie is a punk, Judy is a runt…no? Okay, never mind then. No Ramones fans in the audience. That’s cool!) Without further ado, I present to you, my Sew Colette Pastille Dress Muslin, in all it’s bright yellow glory:

I look so glum!

May I just say that I don’t think I really make a true muslin all that often. I either just make a bodice, or I make the whole damn thing with seam finishing (pinking) and heming and everything. I’m not one for the in-between. I recognize that this is not, in fact, the point of a muslin, but it’s my garment and I’ll pink if I want to (if you’re not into the Ramones I’m sure Lesley Gore is right up your alley).  So this is yet another “wearable” muslin, sue me.

I made this out of a sheet I had dyed yellow, because dying is fun. It’s a touch anemic on me, the color, I mean, but I think it will be cute for summer. Given my experience with the Meringue  Skirt,  I traced and cut a size 8 this time, which worked really nicely through the hips and rear etc, but was a bit snug in the bust and back:

I did not want to hear such as thing, because it makes me feel bad about myself, so I lashed out at my mother/photographer. Sorry, mom. But just like when she told me I couldn’t make my own soap because it’s dangerous for ten year olds to use lye, she was correct. It looks okay in this photo, but I can see that oh-so-adorable thing that happens when your bra strap cuts into your back and gives you imaginary but emotionally debilitating back fat.

The back zipper, she is wrinkled.

So, thoughts: I really like this dress. Unlike the Meringue, which, while adorable, and I like my final version (photos to come once I take them in San Juan!) isn’t really my jam, this is my kind of dress. It’s more fitted then my usual style, but I think that’s a good thing, and I like that it hugs my curves and highlights my waist. And I love the pleats and the sweetheart neckline, so that’s all to the good.

I like the fit right now, in general, and I think with some adjustments it will be just perfect. I think I ought to do a full bust adjustment, which is something that, believe it or not, I’ve never actually done. I know. And my chest? Is not small. I’m a D, if you must know, but somehow I’ve just never had to do one….so that’s interesting. But Sarai has a guide in the book, and there are scores of tutorials on the internet, so I’m not concerned. The back is a bit more perplexing, though, and I’m not sure what to do to fix that. Do I cut a bigger size just for the back? Let out the darts? Any thoughts, friends? All suggestions would be welcome!

The length is good, the sleeves are cute, but next time, when I make this for real for real, I might have to break down and line it, at least in the bodice. I just hate facings, people, I hate them. I think they are evil. They never really stay down unless you tack the hell out of them and then you can see the stitches on the right side which was the WHOLE POINT OF A FACING, SO THAT DOESN’T HAPPEN. Facings and I, not best friends forever.

So there you  have it. In other news, I’m currently working on a pair of Denim clovers, yay, and I’ve finally gotten together all the pieces I will need for my spring jacket! More on that to come. What are you working on? Any other Sew Coletters out there?

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